We landed after a six-hour flight over the Pacific during a storm, the idea of \u200b\u200boff the plane and be greeted by Hawaiian girls you decorate with garlands of flowers has become a reality ..... for those who had The all inclusive package at the Hilton. The poor without the traveler "package" we help eachother with high hopes and we go looking for the shuttle to the hotel booked through booking.com. Finally, I would say, again, hot ... 25 degrees beautiful evening and thirty day EIT our fun days.
I waited a week after my arrival on the island of O'ahu x have a complete picture of the place and try to riuassumere at once all my impressions. Do not bore you away telling you what's cool here, how beautiful tropical fish, sea beds and palm trees that form the backdrop to turquoise water that reflects the mountains of the rainforest. All this you already know, these are the Hawaii. What I would look forward to while you read this is what this island do not know. And 'how people look at you at first glance, such as your name, what you respect. Obviously the impact of people has always been bland and never long for the simple reason that traveling with my father also had to meet his needs and after two years of pure surf in Australia was not the case of pushing it ruin your holiday places where you can breathe, you talks and looks just the surf. We always mediated situations from which he brought out the best. People were one of the things I was most taken aback, almost a tidal wave of Asians. Japponesi especially, I thought that after they attacked Pearl Harbour you forgive they are doing by coming here in droves on vacation, bringing wealth. And the Hawaiians themselves are part of the island cultures of the South Pacific. They are practically Thaitiani with oriental features. I walk the streets to find myself in front of these guys with the classic tattoo maori samoa .... and I remain stunned by the beauty of the girls. Long hair, dark eyes, dark skin blacks and curves ... wow! Then we
in 2011 and then you find that Americans have moved sempicemente university students or tourists who have decided to pull warm.
But there is another species that wander around the island waiting for his x appear at the right time. Hawaii surfing is not like other places in the world where I have been chasing waves before . Here everything is asleep, the sea is calm, and shops in the street, you just go into the villages of campaign events from this strange species, are starting to call you "bro" and treat you like a normal person. You're no longer a tourist on vacation in Waikiki ... when you pass the boundary of the North Shore ... Here the concept of life is based on the sea, their beliefs, their God and their strength comes from the power of the ocean. There are no hotels, there is no beach, there are restaurants nn. Like the first Polynesians arrived aboard their canoes after I crossed the Pacific and not knowing how to overcome the reef they invented this slide on the waves to reach the beaches ... it's as if all the villages here live in a ' suspended atmosphere behind the reef to wait. To see their photos, their art and their ways of life made their homes small businesses run by people who do not have another purpose in life if you treat yourself nn a meeting with his god. We immediately made aware of how what I was accustomed to seeing as a sport, here becomes a mystical experience. Since the first surfer better known for having ridden the waves of the North Shore for fun, the Duke of him ... after tens and hundreds of other small then some men decide each year during the winter season to sit on the shores of Haleiwa , Waimea, Sunset Beach and Pipeline ... waiting for their moment of trial. There are times when not enough to be surfers, no need to be muscular and even more no matter who you are and what you do in life . When he gets the "swell" in these parts is about 20ft (6metri) wave when is small up to normal 30ft (9-10m ).... waves breaking on rocky outcrops and you almost shut over the head with the power of a moving train. When you find yourself in the face of this show and you decide to go to sea ... the only thing that matters is what you believe. But we really need to believe it ... then the sea will do the rest. Direct to the lineup and try to hunt one of these monsters is to put their lives on the edge ... while watching the wall that stands up under you and think you need to get off, you begin to think that it is physically impossible challenge that strength ... if in the end you realize you've made it, the only thing you hear is that you want to do it again and more ...
I waited a week after my arrival on the island of O'ahu x have a complete picture of the place and try to riuassumere at once all my impressions. Do not bore you away telling you what's cool here, how beautiful tropical fish, sea beds and palm trees that form the backdrop to turquoise water that reflects the mountains of the rainforest. All this you already know, these are the Hawaii. What I would look forward to while you read this is what this island do not know. And 'how people look at you at first glance, such as your name, what you respect. Obviously the impact of people has always been bland and never long for the simple reason that traveling with my father also had to meet his needs and after two years of pure surf in Australia was not the case of pushing it ruin your holiday places where you can breathe, you talks and looks just the surf. We always mediated situations from which he brought out the best. People were one of the things I was most taken aback, almost a tidal wave of Asians. Japponesi especially, I thought that after they attacked Pearl Harbour you forgive they are doing by coming here in droves on vacation, bringing wealth. And the Hawaiians themselves are part of the island cultures of the South Pacific. They are practically Thaitiani with oriental features. I walk the streets to find myself in front of these guys with the classic tattoo maori samoa .... and I remain stunned by the beauty of the girls. Long hair, dark eyes, dark skin blacks and curves ... wow! Then we
in 2011 and then you find that Americans have moved sempicemente university students or tourists who have decided to pull warm.
But there is another species that wander around the island waiting for his x appear at the right time. Hawaii surfing is not like other places in the world where I have been chasing waves before . Here everything is asleep, the sea is calm, and shops in the street, you just go into the villages of campaign events from this strange species, are starting to call you "bro" and treat you like a normal person. You're no longer a tourist on vacation in Waikiki ... when you pass the boundary of the North Shore ... Here the concept of life is based on the sea, their beliefs, their God and their strength comes from the power of the ocean. There are no hotels, there is no beach, there are restaurants nn. Like the first Polynesians arrived aboard their canoes after I crossed the Pacific and not knowing how to overcome the reef they invented this slide on the waves to reach the beaches ... it's as if all the villages here live in a ' suspended atmosphere behind the reef to wait. To see their photos, their art and their ways of life made their homes small businesses run by people who do not have another purpose in life if you treat yourself nn a meeting with his god. We immediately made aware of how what I was accustomed to seeing as a sport, here becomes a mystical experience. Since the first surfer better known for having ridden the waves of the North Shore for fun, the Duke of him ... after tens and hundreds of other small then some men decide each year during the winter season to sit on the shores of Haleiwa , Waimea, Sunset Beach and Pipeline ... waiting for their moment of trial. There are times when not enough to be surfers, no need to be muscular and even more no matter who you are and what you do in life . When he gets the "swell" in these parts is about 20ft (6metri) wave when is small up to normal 30ft (9-10m ).... waves breaking on rocky outcrops and you almost shut over the head with the power of a moving train. When you find yourself in the face of this show and you decide to go to sea ... the only thing that matters is what you believe. But we really need to believe it ... then the sea will do the rest. Direct to the lineup and try to hunt one of these monsters is to put their lives on the edge ... while watching the wall that stands up under you and think you need to get off, you begin to think that it is physically impossible challenge that strength ... if in the end you realize you've made it, the only thing you hear is that you want to do it again and more ...
These are the phrases and stories of those who have experienced these experiences, who has become a legend thanks to his achievements of those who died under the power of those waves, and who at eighteen she won the competition of the year riding those trains .... I unfortunately or luckily I have not had a chance to see even the shadow of these epic storms ... I had to make do with the atmosphere of expectation sitting with them on the sand .... and it's only when you see them all in water, form a circle and join hands shouting the names of all those epic waves from those paragraphs that are returned ... mi considero fortunato a non essere stato presente....per il semplice fatto che io...ci credo.
Aloha
After six hours flying over the stormy pacific, we landed in hawaii, and the idea of recieving a necklace of flowers from local girls was finally really... for the people who were staying at the hilton hotel. For us poor travelers, without an all inclusive booking, we could nothing but our hopes to go and try to find the shuttle to the hotel that we had booked on booking.com. Finally hot weather again, 25 beautiful degrees at night and 30 during the day, giving our relaxing days a nice touch.
I waited a week after i landed in O’hau before to write this post because i wanted to be able to express all my emotions and feeling in one big post.
I’m not going to bore you by telling how beautiful it is here, the tropical fishes, diving, palms that are the background of a deep tourquoise water, wherein mountains reflect themselves, smiling to the sun with the rain forest.. You already Know this…damn, this is Hawaii. What you probably don’t Know, and what i’d love to share with u is how the locals look at u at first, how they call you, how they respect u. Obviously i couldn’t have a long interaction with them considering i’m travelling with my dad, who doesn’t speak english at all and has his abits to respect. I couldn’t take him to surf everyday when he barely Knows how to swim, and i couldn't pretend he waited for me on the beach for hours, but we still found good things to anyway, completing it all with a touch of healthy surf. In this place where you can breath, speak and see only surf.
I was impressed at first by the quantity of japanese on the island. I thought they were asking forgivness after the attack on pearl harbour by bringing money to the islands….but the Hawaiian people are part of the south pacific island culture,.. they are very similar to Tahitian people but then their faces have a faint brush of asian in them... I’m walking on the street and i see this massive Maori tattoo on awesome guys and girls with long dark hair, black eyes and curves…wowowowowow!!!
Then we r in 2011 so u can find everything here, from a student, to retired americans or a tourist who liked the place and so moved here in the heat of the moment.
But there is another species of people around the island, someone who’s waiting for his moment to show up. In Hawaii surf is not like anywhere else in the world i’ve been before. Everything seems to slip here, the sea is calm. In the shops and in the country villages made by these people, they call u folks or bro and u feel like a normal person. You are not anymore a tourist on holiday in waikiki where u go over the border of the North shore. Here the concept of living is based on the sea, their beliefs,.. their power arrives straight from the ocean. There isnt hotesls here, nothing on the beach, no restaurants. Its like when the first Tahitians arrived here, when to avoid the reefs for getting to the beach they invented how to surf with their canoe. It is like everyone is living a suspended life, waiting behind a reef.
Looking at their art, their pictures, at their business and houses, listening to their story…it is like everyone is waiting to meet their god. I realized quickly that here surf is not how i have always looked at it…here it is not a sport… here it is a meeting With your own god. Surf becomes here a mystical experience. Since The first who surfed for fun…Duke…after him hundreds and thousands of people decide every year during the winter season, to sit the north shore’s beaches like Haleiwa, Waimea, sunset, Pipeline…to wait their meeting. Sometimes, There are moments When being a surfer is not enough , doesn’t matter if u have muscles or what u do for a living... When the swell comes in this side of the world we are talking about 20 feet at least but usually 30ft waves braking into a shallow reef and close on your head With the power of a running train. When you are in front of this amazing show…the Only thing that matters is what u believe in and how much. The sea will do the rest. Going to the lineup trying to catch a monster like that is like to put your life on the line ….while you are watching the rising wall underneath, you think how is it possible to make it and deal with that power…if at the end u realize that u made it…the Only thing u want is to do it again and again….
These are only the feelings and stories of people who lived it, of the people who become legends for their achievements here, of the people who died under this power, or the experiences of an eighteen year old who won one of the biggest contests on the island dealing with those waves
Unfortunately i wasn’t there when the swell was…i never saw these epic waves….but i was happy sitting with the locals on the beach, waiting and hearing their stories….and only When u see them in the water, making a circle and holding Each other's hands, yelling the names of Those Who Did not Come back from the waves ... only then ... You Understand
It Was Probably lucky i wasn't there .. When Were These waves
... because ... i believe ....
After six hours flying over the stormy pacific, we landed in hawaii, and the idea of recieving a necklace of flowers from local girls was finally really... for the people who were staying at the hilton hotel. For us poor travelers, without an all inclusive booking, we could nothing but our hopes to go and try to find the shuttle to the hotel that we had booked on booking.com. Finally hot weather again, 25 beautiful degrees at night and 30 during the day, giving our relaxing days a nice touch.
I waited a week after i landed in O’hau before to write this post because i wanted to be able to express all my emotions and feeling in one big post.
I’m not going to bore you by telling how beautiful it is here, the tropical fishes, diving, palms that are the background of a deep tourquoise water, wherein mountains reflect themselves, smiling to the sun with the rain forest.. You already Know this…damn, this is Hawaii. What you probably don’t Know, and what i’d love to share with u is how the locals look at u at first, how they call you, how they respect u. Obviously i couldn’t have a long interaction with them considering i’m travelling with my dad, who doesn’t speak english at all and has his abits to respect. I couldn’t take him to surf everyday when he barely Knows how to swim, and i couldn't pretend he waited for me on the beach for hours, but we still found good things to anyway, completing it all with a touch of healthy surf. In this place where you can breath, speak and see only surf.
I was impressed at first by the quantity of japanese on the island. I thought they were asking forgivness after the attack on pearl harbour by bringing money to the islands….but the Hawaiian people are part of the south pacific island culture,.. they are very similar to Tahitian people but then their faces have a faint brush of asian in them... I’m walking on the street and i see this massive Maori tattoo on awesome guys and girls with long dark hair, black eyes and curves…wowowowowow!!!
Then we r in 2011 so u can find everything here, from a student, to retired americans or a tourist who liked the place and so moved here in the heat of the moment.
But there is another species of people around the island, someone who’s waiting for his moment to show up. In Hawaii surf is not like anywhere else in the world i’ve been before. Everything seems to slip here, the sea is calm. In the shops and in the country villages made by these people, they call u folks or bro and u feel like a normal person. You are not anymore a tourist on holiday in waikiki where u go over the border of the North shore. Here the concept of living is based on the sea, their beliefs,.. their power arrives straight from the ocean. There isnt hotesls here, nothing on the beach, no restaurants. Its like when the first Tahitians arrived here, when to avoid the reefs for getting to the beach they invented how to surf with their canoe. It is like everyone is living a suspended life, waiting behind a reef.
Looking at their art, their pictures, at their business and houses, listening to their story…it is like everyone is waiting to meet their god. I realized quickly that here surf is not how i have always looked at it…here it is not a sport… here it is a meeting With your own god. Surf becomes here a mystical experience. Since The first who surfed for fun…Duke…after him hundreds and thousands of people decide every year during the winter season, to sit the north shore’s beaches like Haleiwa, Waimea, sunset, Pipeline…to wait their meeting. Sometimes, There are moments When being a surfer is not enough , doesn’t matter if u have muscles or what u do for a living... When the swell comes in this side of the world we are talking about 20 feet at least but usually 30ft waves braking into a shallow reef and close on your head With the power of a running train. When you are in front of this amazing show…the Only thing that matters is what u believe in and how much. The sea will do the rest. Going to the lineup trying to catch a monster like that is like to put your life on the line ….while you are watching the rising wall underneath, you think how is it possible to make it and deal with that power…if at the end u realize that u made it…the Only thing u want is to do it again and again….
These are only the feelings and stories of people who lived it, of the people who become legends for their achievements here, of the people who died under this power, or the experiences of an eighteen year old who won one of the biggest contests on the island dealing with those waves
Unfortunately i wasn’t there when the swell was…i never saw these epic waves….but i was happy sitting with the locals on the beach, waiting and hearing their stories….and only When u see them in the water, making a circle and holding Each other's hands, yelling the names of Those Who Did not Come back from the waves ... only then ... You Understand
It Was Probably lucky i wasn't there .. When Were These waves
... because ... i believe ....